Sunday, November 29, 2009

This post is secretly a history lesson

It's such a small world. Especially when you've been to or lived on more than one of the several islands in the Indian ocean. A few weeks ago, I met a neighbor of ours who is South African, (imagine my surprise, running into someone who speaks English!) and who also happens to know a guy (Burt) who was a friend of ours (PCVs) in the north of Madagascar.
This neighbor of ours, Walt, lives here with his wife Judith, and their 8 year old daughter. He, like Burt, was a yachtie who has travelled tremendously in his lifetime. He left SA and headed to Kenya, then to Chagos, Malaysia, Mauritius, Seychelles, Comores, Madagascar, various other small islands in the area, and all around again. We had them over for dinner the other night and they told the most incredible stories about sailing and living in all those different places. The one spot that sparked the most interest for Alex and I was Chagos. I had heard of it once while I was in Madagascar; that it's a US military base on an uninhabited island smack-dab in the middle of the ocean. I never thought much of it.
Now, after hearing Walt and Judith talk about it, and doing a little researching on my own, I've become more curious. Here is a map to help you visualize where the Chagos archipelago lies: it's at the very center of the map, just under the vertical strip of Maldives islands, and it's not even marked.


What has happened on the Chagos island during the past 40 years is of particular interest. Before all of that though, the islands were uninhabited until the colonization period. It is thought that most Chagossians were of African descent, brought there as slaves by the french. After Napolean's defeat, Chagos came under British rule, which hasn't changed since then, but the islands are now reffered to as BIOT (British Indian Ocean Territory).
Suddenly, beginning in 1967, Chagossians were forcibly removed from their homeland in different ways; some left on vacation and were not allowed back in, some went to seek medical treatment on Mauritius (because funds had "run out" for the local medical staff) and were denyed reentry, and the last group of people were loaded onto ships bound for Mauritius or Seychelles. Families were split up, and most ended up living in poverty in the capital of Mauritius, St. Louis.
WHY?
Because the US and British governments had secret plans to set up a US Naval Base in the Indian Ocean, for Cold War strategies. The original choice was Aldabra, a small island north of Madagascar. It was uninhabited by people, but home to a rare breed of turtle, and so, fearing politically aware environmentalists, the US turned to Diego Garcia, the main island of the Chagos group. No matter that there was a human population which had been living there for the past 200 years. Apparently, it was easier to deny rights to these people than to try to build the naval base on an island filled with rare turtles. No one told the people living there what was happening until the very end; they were allowed to bring one small bag of personal items with them and had to say good-bye to their homes forever.
To read a very good indepth history of the Chagossians, go here, or read about a documentary which may or may not still be in the making here, or read this book; Island of Shame.
As an FYI, the lease of Diego Garcia to the US govt ends in 2016, at which point it could be renewed. Perhaps the future administration of the US could right some wrongs of the past at that point.
The latest news about Chagossians.

In the words of a Chagossian living in Mauritius:
"The UK and US governments have taken us and are taking us for a big ride. They go to Bosnia, Somalia, Afghanistan and Iraq to put an end to violations of human rights; yet, they are violating human rights in their own back yard."

Monday, November 16, 2009

Family bike rides

Join us as we cycle down to the beach to watch the sunset!










Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Once a good book, always a good book

Today I used my battered, smattered, and partially torn copy of Mampalicious (it's a cookbook of course! when am I not talking about cookbooks?) that I received during training in the Peace Corps. "Mampa" is put before a verb in Malagasy which means "to make someone or somthing do something", so the title means "to make something delicious", (in the fun mix of english and Gasy).
Every so often, the ol' Mampa gets taken off the shelf to be used as inspiration for whatever I'm got left in my kitchen (ya know, the day or two before you make one of those awfully big trips to the grocery store to stock up on staples). It's a great cookbook because all of the recipes are easy, I repeat, EASY, and don't require unusual ingredients. That's because it's meant for people who A) may have just graduated college and haven't been cooking much on their own; B) don't have access to grocery stores or really to much of anything in general; and C) are wondering what else they can make with rice. In fact, there is a whole chapter dedicated to rice recipes, because let's face it, eating plain rice gets kinda boring after just a few months (at least when you're an American living in Madagascar).
When I first got my hands on Mampalicious, I was stoked, I mean, cooking is a huge part of life anywhere, but when you're out of your element and have limited supplies, it's so helpful to have a little guidance instead of spending your tiny peace corps budget on street food or hotelys (not a hotel, just a restuarant that is usually run by a family who probably lives on the back of the property). The book even has instructions on how to make your own oven, although I wasn't so successful with that one. Also, there's a small section on Vache Qui Rit, perhaps some of you know it in English as Laughing Cow cheese. Every so often, I would buy a round package of this wonderful stuff on a trip to Ambanja, about 50km north of the village I lived in. I would conserve it carefully, and try to make the 8 wedges last as long as possible. I missed cheese so much, and this was all I could get my hands on since I had no refridgerator (or electricity or running water for that matter). Pasta was another luxury, it being more expensive than rice, because really are there any Malagasy who would rather eat pasta than rice? There were a couple of mornings where I treated myself and made Mac and Vache for breakfast. (Just to change it up, to give myself a break from the normal katakata and mofo-vary). Then some vanilla-cinnamon coffee in my little coffee sock. Breakfast of champions, I tell ya. What a great way to start the day.
For this time however, I only wanted to make tapioca pudding, but couldn't remember the portions of milk to sugar and tapioca granules. It's 1/2 cup of tapioca, 1/2 cup of sugar, and 3 cups of milk, by the way. I also threw in a halved vanilla bean.
Thank you Mampalicious, for making my cooking experiences easier and more tasty here and in Madagascar. I'll be using you again soon, it's almost time to go to Jumbo. When I see Vache in the grocery store here, I always think of my Mac and Vache meals. But now I won't touch the stuff, because now, I have a vast array of cheese choices, swiss, bleu, cream, mozzeralla, ricotta, camebert, etc. Also, and perhaps more importantly, we have a refridgerator to keep them in!

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Marché St. Paul

Glimpses of the Friday Market in St. Paul.
These images are part of why I felt like there was a simple life conciousness sitting on my shoulder earlier.....





Natural soaps made in St. Leu


Brings back memories of Madagascar whenever I see these woven bags.

Need a turtle with a bobbing head? We got you covered.

My favorite street musician who also plays in St. Denis

Get your samoussas while they're still hot!




Fresh bread and baked goods








Why did blogger turn this picture? I swear it's right side up on my computer.

Feliky mafana!






I finally worked up the nerve to try cooking AND eating beets the other day. They were actually pretty good. But they're not going to be my number one favorite vegetable either.




Wasn't that lovely? I go to the market in St. Paul just about every week, and I always find something new and interesting/tastey.

Friday, November 6, 2009

Creative Desires

For the past 3 months or so, I've been consumed with a need to release some newfound creative energy. Now that the monkey is becoming such a curious little explorer, I am taking his cue to wake up to the beauty and details of our little world here. What I mean is that I've begun to keep certain things that could be reused in a creative way. I'm not sure how or what will come of these materials, but I do know that something can and must be done to give them a second beautiful life. And what medium do I want to work with you ask? Anything and everything. Paper, fabric, plastic, wood, metal, etc.
I credit this recent creative vibe to my discovery of Etsy.com, which I completely missed during my time away from accessible internet (aka: my peace corps stint). Everytime I check Etsy, I find at least 10 creative projects that give me the idea of "hey, even I could do that!" or, "I could do something like that, but I'd switch out that for...". I even found the headband I wore at our renewal of vows ceremony on Etsy.


Here are some other things I'm loving on Etsy these days and think maybe I could replicate in some way:



Currently, I am eagerly awaiting my copy of Handmade Home to arrive for further inspiration and ideas. It was written by Amanda Blake Soule, author of the blog SouleMama which I love and have listed under "Likeable Stuff" on the right.
Perhaps this creative desire is also part of why I began this blog. Writing, however random (or even boring) the subject, is still an outlet of sorts.
Stay tuned for some creative projects in the next few months. Until then, take some time to check out Etsy, to support the handmade movement, and maybe check off some holiday shopping from your "to do" lists.